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Figured might as well migrate over some of the useful posts in case someone is looking for camera advice again:

 

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TuckerIntensity:

 

OK, I'm debating a DSLR. So, sell me. I have an Olympus point and shoot that's pretty solid, but the zoom isn't great. It still takes decent pictures though. But, I'd like a DSLR but don't have a lot of money (because I'm going away for a couple of weeks) so give me the reasons I should (for those of you that use one), but keep in mind, I can't spend a boat load either. The three I've been looking at are the Olympus E-420, the Canon EOs Rebel XS, and the Sony Alpha A230/330. Olympus is nice because I can use a couple memory cards I already have (but not all.)

Anything over $600-700 all in and I can't do it. That doesn't leave much choice and I don't know if it's really worth it...

But try to sell me anyway... and.... go!

 

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Nipzie:

 

I can't use point and shoots for the life of me. Can't get the colours to turn out how I see it. I can with DSLRs. I have a Nikon D50, about 4-5 years old. Any question I have, I just hit the "?" button and I can find out what a function does, without reading the inch thick manual. I can almost always get it to do what I want. Even the misses prefers it. I only got the point and shoot for her, and she still takes the SLR.

The camera cost is not where you'll spend your money. All the money is in the lenses, and some in extra gadgets.

Edit: Especially close up lenses, but you can "cheap out" and buy an extender tube for about $25 that will give you close ups. Only problem with them, is the extended tube changes the focal point, so what you see from the eyepiece, is a bit bigger than what you are shooting. So that takes some getting used to.

 

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ajrs2000:

 

You obviously want one, so go for it.

 

If you are having any doubts, the only reasons I can think of not to get one is:

 

1. Size.....they are bulky compared to regular digital cameras.

 

2. You are afraid your three tear old will break it, since he has pretty much broken everything else in his quest to figure out how anything electronic works.......ummmm, maybe this just applies to me.

 

3. Your picture taking skills won't improve with a better camera.......again, this just may be me.

 

Go for it TI.

 

~~~

Nipzie:

 

Your vision for framing the perfect shot won't improve, but your picture quality most definitely will.

 

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NikolaiKulemin:

 

I'd save your money, Canon just came out with a new camera but typically the newest releases come out during late winter/early spring. I bought an entry level DSLR (Rebel XS) for $499.99 and although it takes good quality photos..it's not that much different in terms of features and quality from a point-and-shoot..just looks fancy and all. I'd save your money until the spring and invest in a good mid-range level DSLR that will run you anywhere from 1,000 to 1,500..seems like alot but why spend $700 on a good quality camera when you can spend 1,200 on a stellar camera.

Another thing with SLR's is that you'll find your spending more on the lenses then the camera itself. A good wide-angle lens will run you about $400, telephoto you're looking at the same...but yeah coming from a person who is now stuck with an average SLR..i would go mid-ranged if i were to be getting into SLR photography.

(Although if you're looking to buy used i wouldn't mind giving you a deal on my Canon EOS Rebel XS wink.png )

 

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hby_fan:

 

I have the Canon XS. Really good camera. But if you are planning to make more professional pictures, you might want to upgrade the XS to something like the T2i or even the 50D. 50D not selling anymore, but prices should be low.

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killingwithasmile:

 

my fiance and i bought a dslr about 6 months ago, nikon d3000, ive found it to be a great camera and easy to use with minimal photography expertise, i wanted the d5000 but was out of our price range. the d3000 lacks the video recording of the d5000 and the live view. but as mentioned previously of nikons the "?" button is a great tool and the camera has now roped me into trying to get that perfect shot. the only gripe i have is the stock lens 18-55mm seems to struggle with wide angle shots, could also be my inability though

ive seen good prices for both cameras with twin lens kits

 

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David:

 

Nikon d3000 is meant to be a good new entry level. I'll find my magazine when I get in tonight and have a look what they recommend.

 

 

(on spending on lenses vs bodies, quoted from NikolaiKulemin)

 

So true - I've just spent about £700 on a macro lens and an 10-18mm lens for my camera. There's no point having a decent back, with cheap lenses.

 

(on megapixel count)

 

The MP isn't the most important thing. it's only really important if you're doing large format prints.

 

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Calico:

 

My Pentax's are only 6.1 & I can enlarge to 8X10 with no discernible loss of quality,I haven't tried larger,but I suspect I could.

 

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David:

 

(on Calico's MP post)

 

Exactly. I think 4mp can go double that. The only problem is if you're trying to crop a smaller part of the pic and blow it up. But it won't be as good as going for it with a bigger lens in the first place.

 

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Wilkstar:

 

I'm looking at getting a new DSLR in the near future, and I'll be starting from scratch. My current camera is a regular point-and-shoot, so the big question for me right now is basically Nikon vs. Canon vs. Sony. I'm leaning towards Nikon or Canon simply because I know a few people with Sony DSLRs, and their main issue is they're not as dominant in the camera world, so going out and renting bigger lenses and such is a lot harder. I'm looking at the Canon t4i/Nikon 3200 range to start, and I figure over time I'll start collecting lenses here and there and eventually upgrade the camera body down the line.

 

Anyone have any suggestions?? Right now it seems like a hard choice because once I decide which to go for, I'll basically be using that brand forever...haha!

 

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TuckerIntensity:

 

Didn't even remember making this thread! I eventually did purchase a Canon and can't think of the model at the moment. Haven't had an issue and still learning, purchased much later than this thread was made. I opted for Canon for solely the reason you are talking about, someone had given us an older SLR after I made this thread and we had a couple of Canon lenses already so it was a no brainer once it was time to purchase. My aunt and uncle are huge in to photography and love their Nikon equipment as well. I don't know if you can go wrong either way. I wish we had been given a Nikon solely so we could borrow lenses though!

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Robbie Reid:

 

Wilkstar, have you considered a micro 4/3 camera ? For example, the Sony NEX. Panasonic and Olympus make them too.

That have large CMOS sensors like a DSLR but are in smaller bodies (sensors slighly smaller in some cases). I can fit mine in my pocket (not easilly, but possible and only with the smallest of lenses)

The Sony NEX sensor is the freakin impressive (And I hate Sony with a passion yet am endorsing them here). These types of cameras have interchangeable lenses as well.

 

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tbnl:

 

Micro 4/3 is a decent option. Easy enough for basic point and shoot, and depending on the camera, will have some advanced features too. And you can find adapters for other lens mounts should you decide to pick Canon or Nikon. Definitely give a hard look into those two as they are the industry leaders. And if anyone tells you to buy one brand over the other because the pros use this or that, hit them. You have it right, it is about investing in brands. Coke or Pepsi, Ferrari or Lambourghini. Don't get too worried about choosing the wrong side though. If you're going to buy anything relatively new within the past decade or so, you have a good chance of reselling or adapting. If I recall, Nikon can be used on Canon, but not vice versa.

 

Shy away from the Nikon 1 series. I'm not sold on it. For the money you invest in it just to save space and weight, you could get the D5100 and really build a proper kit.

 

Definitely build your kit based on the glass, not the body as that will be outdated within 1-2.5 years. Ask around, you may have an uncle or grandparent or friend who has film stuff just collecting dust. That's a great and cheap way to find decent lenses. Pawn shops, camera store used sections and garage sales too are great sources for old glass. Though mind you, they may not meter properly and will be most likely manual focus, but remember, anyone who's made a good image (Leibovitz, Arbus, Man Ray, etc.) did everything manually from focus, aperture, shutter, ISO, everything on film.

 

Another tip, old Canon gear is hit or miss when it comes to compatibility. I think anything from the 90s on is pretty good for working/mounting with the new bodies. Definitely read into that before buying Canon glass from like the 70s and 80s.

 

Nikon stuff pretty much mounts from 70s onward. I shoot a Nikon D7000, and can set the specs of an old lens to meter with the camera. Worth the 1200 I paid for it. I have some old Series E lenses from the 80s my dad gave me with his old FE. Decent primes made of actual metal. Like I said, manual focus, but I'd gotten decent enough that I don't need to spend 500 on a 28mm and a 50mm just to auto focus. Autofocus is hit or miss. I shoot manual focus a lot and manual overall when need be.

 

First lense you need? Basic kit which is typically a 18-55mm. You'll be using that the most. Anything beyond that to start is excessive. Maybe a prime for low light and maybe a zoom to 200mm. But like I said, 18-55 is pretty much all you need for general walk around stuff.

 

The stock shoulder strap is junk. I use a very comfortable wide cotton guitar strap that doesn't advertise in large bright letters. Bought it specifically for my camera for like 15 bucks. Worth it.

 

That's what I got for starters. Feel free to ask with any other questions you may have.

 

~~~

brown_lad:

 

I would recommend looking into Panasonic as well.

Got myself a FZ35 and Love it !

Here's the review on it

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Debaser:

 

Hey guys, I was thinking about buying a camera for myself, but I've got no idea where to start. I have no idea what brands are good (Nikon?
Canon?)

I was thinking of a higher end camera, not like a smaller digital camera. My budget is around $400 USD. Any suggestions? I know there are a
couple guys with nice cameras/know a lot about them
 

~~~

 

TuckerIntensity:

 

I bought a Canon a year ago and love it. Went with the Canon solely based on the fact I already had a couple of Canon lenses, so it made sense. Very entry level, the Rebel T2i. You can't really eff anything up and I find I'm able to try some stuff and mix it up as well. It took some pretty awesome pictures across the pond, far better than the regular old point and shoot last time.

 

I don't really know a shit load about them, but I know I got in at pretty entry level and it was certainly worth it. I think it was 500 on Boxing Day but came with the kit (bag, extra lens, extra battery.)

 

~~~

tbnl:

 

Are you looking for DSLR or the newer, smaller forms of mirrorless? The big difference between the two is glass options and features mostly. DSLR will have more options with lens attachments and what not.

 

When it comes to brand, Nikon vs Canon is the big rivalry. Can't go wrong with either. If you are looking towards DSLR, ask around friends
and family if they have old lenses from film cameras they don't want. Great way to find good 28mm and 50mm for next to nothing. Depending on the body, may meter fully or not. Still, I love using my manual primes in low light and just for fun when fast auto focus isn't necessary. Pawn shops and used sections of camera stores also great for old stuff.

 

Pentax's K-01 is a mirrorless with the k-mount, so it will work with old lenses dating back to 1975.

 

Other brands like Sony and Panasonic have good cameras too, but if you're looking to build a kit of lenses and maybe upgrade bodies in the future, might be best to stick to the big 2.

 

Brand new or used? Both Canon and Nikon came out with new models a few months ago, so you may find some 1 or 2 year old cameras for much less
and will have greater functionality then a new lesser camera. The Nikon D3100 comes to mind.

 

When it comes to lenses, 18-55mm or 18-75mm is the standard that comes with. It's really all you need for now.

 

Megapixels is an important number, but not as important as ISO. A high mp will mean better resolution and bigger pic sizes, but more range in
ISO (100-6400+ typically) means better shots in low light, like at night or indoors. A higher ISO means faster shutter speed, but too high and graininess will occur. 100-200 is perfect for a sunny day. 400 is decent for well lit indoor shots.

 

If you do go DSLR, get a good strap. The kit one is okay, but I find usually uncomfortable and a walking ad. I use a black $20 cotton guitar strap. Comfy and strong. I've hung off climbing walls and run down streets and it stays just fine.

 

Other options to consider:

-M or manual mode. Important. To me at least. Gives you full control of aperture and shutter speed. Sure, Automatic is easy, but learn manual or use A(perture) or S(hutter) priority and you'll have control over better pictures. Automatic is for dummies.

 

-self-cleaning sensor. Most have. Nice to have to reduce spotty prints.

 

-wireless shutter and flash options. If you ever need to do tripod work or external lighting, being able to buy accessories like a remote or
flash unit helpful.

 

-flash hotshoe. Again, for additional lighting options.

 

-memory options. Some use SD cards, some use CF, some use both. Some have 2 bays for more than 1 card. Always useful. Also consider card
speed. Faster memory card (that the camera can handle) means faster shooting times, less lag. Also, use a separate usb card reader. Don't use the camera cable. Saves battery and the less chance of short circuiting from computer.

 

At your price of $400USD, you should be able to find a Canon Rebel or a Nikon D3200 or so. Entry level. For a little more, like even just an extra $100, you can get something more versatile. At $900-1000 total, you get a great mid-level to semi-pro model. Not full frame, but still, great. I know, it's a lot, but totally worth it if you want to become serious about photos.

 

Also, www.dpreview.com is an encyclopedia (remember those?) of camera knowledge and reviews.

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ajrs2000:

I will throw our camera into the mix, simply because I have it and it works fine for us. Samsung Digital SLR NX10 camera. Now @tbnl
is probably better to give you a technical breakdown, etc. all I can say is that I set the thing on Auto, press the button, get really fantastic images, delete the bad ones (usually where my five year old clown son decides to do something silly.....don't worry we kept a few to blackmail him with before he gets married) connects easily to our computer (my wife told me) so you can download images into your computer.

 

It is an older camera (three years maybe more now) but at the time it was less expensive than a Nikon or Canon (my wife's other option), and since Samsung is a pretty good company and the camera had some pretty good online reviews we went for it.

 

~~~

David:

 

Most things have already been covered. Nikon bodies tend to be a bit cheaper than Canon, because canon tend to have the AF in the camera rather than lens. Ergo Canon lens are cheaper.

I use Nikon - it's a bit old now, so i'm looking at replacing. I'll stick with Nikon because I have all the lenses already, but i'd have nothing against going for Canon if i was to start from scratch.

Sony are pretty decent too. They purchased Minolta a while back.

As has been mentioned, 18-55mm is the standard lens. I have a 55-200mm zoom, which i'm going to upgrade when I have the money. I'm after a 500mm lens. I have a wide angle which I use a bit, and a macro lens, which doesn't get much use.

 

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tyfosi:

 

I would definitely love some DSLR advice. I'm looking at picking one up fairly soon ($500-800ish). Have been wondering about the Canon T3i vs the T4i, how much of a difference would you say there is between them?

 

 

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tbnl:

 

From what I can tell (I'm a nikon user, not a canon) the main difference between the 4i and the 3i is the ISO capacity and the touchscreen.

The 4i has the touchscreen which may be a slightly more convenient way to navigate menus (I personally never had problems with my nikon menu
and dials and buttons and all). Once you get your settings dialed in for the situation, you just keep shooting. So touch screen to me isn't a big deal, but then again, never used one.

The 4i also has double the HI ISO capability, so in low-light situations like indoors or night shooting, you'll have a much better opportunity to capture images without needing additional light. But higher ISO means higher noise and grain.

 

The 4i also supposedly has a better autofocus system for pics and for its HD video shooting, which may or may not be an important factor for you if you plan on shooting video.

That all said, if it were me choosing between these two, I'd choose the t3i because those features of the 4i aren't big sellers for me (except
maybe the ISO thing, but I rarely go beyond 800 ISO in my shooting).

With the $100ish you'd save on the 3i compared to the 4i, you could use that money for a decent 50mm 1.8 prime like the CANON-EF-50MM-1-8-AF-II

 

because ultimately, when building a camera kit, you want to spend your best money on lenses. Bodies will change every few years (like in the case of the 3i to 4i) but lenses tend to last longer without big changes, so invest in your glass. That and as great as your body maybe, the glass ultimately makes the picture.

 

And because the t3i has a 1.6x crop factor, a 50mm will act like an 80mm, so great for portraits.

 

Many of the best lenses out there are still the old manual film ones. So if you can sacrifice autofocus, look into pawn shops or garage sales for old film lenses that work with new bodies. Great way to have versatility for cheap.

 

And in low light, you're better off using a larger aperture like 1.8-2.8 rather than bumping up the ISO which will result in graininess and blurring, especially with the kit lens at 3.5. A larger aperture will provide great sharpness when done right.

 

So I highly recommend investing in a 50mm 1.8 or a 28mm or 35mm primes for low-light and portrait situations.

 

http://www.adencamera.com/product-ov...074&Category=6

At 749, getting that 18-135 is a pretty good deal. It's a versatile lens and for most people, will be all you need to shoot wide landscapes, portraiture and even sports/wildlife with the closeup range of the zoom. Also has the convenience of not having to change lenses to cover that wide range.

Another kit option for the same price is getting it with the 18-55 and a 55-250.

 

http://www.henrys.com/63989-CANON-RE...55-250-IS.aspx

Lacks the bag, but with the extra range of the 55-250mm zoom may be worth it I think. That and a bag with Canon on the side may scream "steal me". I don't quite know what that gadget bag may contain, so maybe buying a bag separate once you get your basic kit assembled would be a better fit. I got a tamrac messenger back years ago for like 70 bucks and it has served me well, being able to fit my dslr, 3-4 lenses, a flash, batteries, manuals and even my old 35mm camera with some re-arranging.

 

So once again, a lot to digest, but luckily for you, most places will have boxing week sales, so you'll have time to shop around and think about it.

 

In summary, if you're looking specifically at the Canons you were suggesting, I'd go with the t3i with the basic 18-55mm kit lens, and then pickup a 50mm 1.8AF for low-light and portraits. Additions like the 55-250mm zoom or going with the 18-135mm is great if you want to spend the extra cash for something to shoot hockey games and closeups.

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tyfosi:

 

Really appreciate it tbnl. I was playing around with my brother in law's T3i today, and he had a few lenses. I really liked the 50mm 1.8 lens that you mentioned (pretty sure that was the one that he had), as well as a wide angle? lens, 10-22mm I want to say, they just really created some really neat pictures.

I would definitely want some sort of zoom capable lens for when I go to Montreal for the F1 race each year.

I think I'm leaning towards your advice of going with the less-new body and investing in the lenses.

 

~~~

tbnl:

 

Oh, a 10-22? That's a decent fisheye. Wish I could afford one of those.

If you're wanting a zoom lens, I'd pickup the 55-250 or 75-300mm rather then the 18-135. Ultimately, you never want to buy lenses that overlap each other, there's no point. You want zooms and then primes with larger apertures.

The kit I have with my nikon D7000 is an 18-55mm, a 55-200mm, and manual 28mm 2.8 and 50mm 1.8 primes as well as a 75-150mm 3.5 for film.

Definitely invest in lenses. You can always sell the body for like 300 or 200ish and upgrade. I'm sure Canon will come up with a t5i or something next year.

 

Also as added tips:

 

Be sure to get filters for every lens that you use regularly. Most importantly, it's an extra layer between your actual lens and whatever you may accidentally come in contact with.

Typical ones you'd use is a UV filter or a skylight filter.

They'll also help warm skies and reduce lens flare. A circular polarizer will help control reflections as well as the boldness of warm or cool colours I find. Run you anywear from 10-20 dollars for something usable. Depending on the brand and size and whatnot.

Be sure to get sturdy lens caps. Dust and dirt is always your enemy on your lens. 5-10 bucks usually. You'll also want good caps for the other end. You cannot scratch either end of the lens. If your lenses don't come with them, get them.

A tripod is great for long exposures, really low light and just when you want to go hands free. A lighter one is more portable, but more solid ones will be more sturdy. A good ball head will allow for easier changes of angle.

Remote shutters are a must with long exposures or if you want to be in the picture.

Flash units: The onboard flash is okay, but having an external flash will give you much more lighting options. Lately I've been playing around with 2 remote light sources for really sharp action photos and great contrast as well as interesting highlights and shadows. Important for indoor shooting if you want well-lit pictures. Not using flash and a larger aperture will result in more natural colours.

Bouncing flash light is why you would buy an external flash. You'll get more illumination on everything, rather than that bright direct flash that tends overexposes photos.

Once again, a good strap is a must for SLRs. Sure, you'll always have a kung fu deathgrip on your camera, but it makes it easier to run around
and climb things. Also for candid street photos, you can shoot from the hip with manual focus set at infinity. Like I said before, I use a cotton guitar strap. Strong, adjustable, comfortable and nonchalant. I sewed a pocket on to hold the lens cap. Hardcore.

 

A nice big cleaning cloth is a must as well as a dust blower to keep your lens clean. Cleaning cloths for glasses are great.

Once again, fast memory cards with decent capacity (4+ gb) will allow you to shoot as much as you want (if you're shooting jpeg. RAW? I'd
suggest as much memory as you can afford.)

Extra battery(ies)? If you shoot enough especially for long sessions or if you're relying on onboard flash, get one. Or if you have an external flash. Have plenty of rechargeable AAs or whatever your flash uses.

 

Talking about bags again. Get a comfortable, sturdy one with easy access. Sometimes, the time it takes for you to open a pocket, swap a lens and take a pic is crucial. It doesn't have to hold your entire outfit, but your entire outfit should only be enough to get you through time away from home.

At most, your kit should hold:

- the camera body(ies if you want to have a film or another backup)

- a standard kit lens (the 18-55) a good zoom (55-200 or 300), and some
large aperture prime lenses (28, 35 or 50mm) or the full 18-300 lens and
the low light prime ensemble; if you want to shill out for a fisheye (laluot_29.gif), you're as photo nuts as I am. Maybe hoods for them too.
- The external flash and batteries

- Pen, permanent marker and paper (never know what you may want to write down) (your arm is a great notepad. I've been meaning to get
lined-paper lines tattooed for mine for such a purpose.)

- A roll of hockey tape (a must have for everything in life really.)

- Manuals (never know when you need to look something up... or start a fire.)

- A way to carry a portable tripod. A buckle, shoelace or velcrow strap is great.

 

- Cleaning gear like the cloth and glass cleaning solution.

So a good bag with enough room and customizable pockets as well as zippers and buckles is great to have, as well as places to store everything from shoelaces (always useful) or rolling papers (even more useful). Or if you have pancake primes like I do, deep pant pockets.

That more or less encompasses what you need for a proper walk-around camera kit.

That's all I got. How to use it all is a different story...

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Also remember that it is you that takes the photo, not the camera. You can bump up to a newer more expensive camera or down to a lesser one, and you'll probably produce the same kind ofphotos. So whatever you end up getting, you'll need to learn to use it to make great photos. I'm still learning.

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My sensor seems to have hairs on it - a right bugger to clean.

Managed to get some pics of this wonderful beast on saturday though. My favourite aircraft - the Vulcan

dGEHACh.png

 

ib6eMGt.png

 

9053724362_0925e999e5_c.jpg

9053730002_be91dc31f3_c.jpg

 

see the dirt there :(

 

9053729538_d8c1dae31f_c.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2mgJ3GuZ-gc

I know it's shot in the wrong aspect ratio but I was trying to take photos with the other hand. Listen to the noise at 27 seconds :D

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We had a spitfire buzzing around our castle the next day. I didn't get anywhere near it, but it was an impressive site doing loops the other side of town

sn9Lk4e.png

 

The Vulcan will always be my favourite though. 

Not my video but look at this :D

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I guess it is the great history behind the Spitfire for me. If it wasn't for that plane and some great pilots in 1940 Britain may have fallen to Germany.

I understand the Hurricane was the better and more successful fighter, but the Spitfire is more legendary  

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I think i've finally managed to clean my sensor, but not until I'd burnt myself taking photos at an air show. The ones I took to test it looked fine before, until they were blown up and contrast adjusted. There were bits of dirt everywhere. Got a few okish pics though. The guy next to me had a Nikon D4 - £4k+ worth - for just the body. I felt a bit feeble with my 200mm lens :( I had to touch up a lot of the pics to remove the dust :(

They all looked like this:

p8S5D2E.jpg

 

F16 :(

9241994230_c47f7e59ac_z.jpg

 

Hercules 

 

 

9242003510_1100dff3a5_z.jpg

Wingwalkers

 

9239232087_95ccf3dc09_z.jpg

Red Arrows

 

9239239149_d1894a1688_z.jpg

Vulcan flying

 

9239236991_6188f6a67e_z.jpg

 

9239234647_a0761febaf_z.jpg

Vulcan landing

 

9239247421_4bcd4829ac_z.jpg

Battle of Britain flight

9239246651_bbd8d4c5de_z.jpg

Lancaster

 

9239221415_90da82af7e_z.jpg

Another f16

Edited by David

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Question:  as a starter camera for someone whose only experience is with point and shoot, how good a camera would the following be to start off with?

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00B1N4TS4/

 

It comes with a 16GB Memory stick for £165 (roughly $260 Canadian).  Any tips would be appreciated.

 

Depends on where you want to go with your photography. Simple snapshots and what not as compared to really playing around with the medium as an art form.

 

If you only want to stick within the realm of point and shoot, this I would say is only a slight upgrade on current P&Ss. The biggest feature it has over others would be the zoom. Other than that, still essentially a basic point and shoot. Most point and shoots however, are lacking in low light. So night portraits tend not to be as good. Your lighting options as well would be limited.

 

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2013/01/07/Panasonic-lumix-dmc-lz30

 

But if you really want control over your photos though, and are willing to take the time and money to figure it all out beyond "auto" and all the scene settings, investing in a mirrorless or dslr would be the better option.

 

Ultimately that is the question, how much control do you want? Do you want the camera to do most of the work for you, and be hassle free in most environments, or do you want to be the one deciding every little tidbit? My d7000, a dslr, has a 16.2mp sensor, so similar to the above, but the big difference of course besides size and cost, is control. I have buttons and dials and lenses and options galore, all because I want to be the one determining it all for every situation.

 

The Panasonic ought to take good pictures. Almost anything with a camera in it these days, let it be P&S, dslr, phone or tablet, can take decent pictures. I still think some of the best photos in history were done on film. My cellphone has an 8.1mp sensor and does alright for itself. It's all about how you use it.

 

If you want simple and easy, the Panasonic you're looking at will serve your needs. If you want to take the plunge into really being a photo buff, it won't fit your needs after a point and you'll need to upgrade again to something more advanced.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited by tbnl

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Thread's gone quiet. Ms Majnoun needs a new camera and her birthday is soon. We're rookies so want something good but easy. Most pictures will be close ups of nature but some travel pictures and of course a million grandkid pics.

Max $1000

Anyone?

@@David

 

Were you looking to have a bunch of lenses too?

 

Because ignoring DSLRs, you could get a decent point and shoot for well under 1k that well do the job, anywhere from 300-500 bucks.

 

A basic DSLR kit can run to the 700 range. Mirrorless runs about the same for the bare minimum.

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Can't go wrong with the T series. It does the job and should be more than enough for your needs. Just all about what you want to spend and how you want to use it.

 

Really do your research as to what you want to get her. Because you can find deals on older rebels, and produce the same results, especially if you're just posting to facebook. It's all about knowing how to use the camera to get the results you want.

 

Starting with the kit 18-55mm lens will be good to start.

 

If you want to get fancy, an 18-200mm is probably the only lens you'll ever have to use on it. Wide shots to super close ups and every thing in between.

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Can't go wrong with the T series. It does the job and should be more than enough for your needs. Just all about what you want to spend and how you want to use it.

 

Really do your research as to what you want to get her. Because you can find deals on older rebels, and produce the same results, especially if you're just posting to facebook. It's all about knowing how to use the camera to get the results you want.

 

Starting with the kit 18-55mm lens will be good to start.

 

If you want to get fancy, an 18-200mm is probably the only lens you'll ever have to use on it. Wide shots to super close ups and every thing in between.

Bought the Canon EOS Rebel 6 with 18-55 lens. Considered the Nikon D3300, higher res at 24 but I was told that didn't matter on normal size pictures. She's happy so far.

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